Best Place To Keep Your Mount Gun Safe

Every gun owner who plans to keep a gun safe in their home should take all precautions and buy a gun safe to protect their weapon. Gun safes are used to keep firearms away from children and away from burglars. It can be tricky to find a good place in your home to keep your gun safe because the main objective is to keep it hidden but quickly accessible.

Most gun safes will provide you with predrilled holes for your gun safe to be bolted permanently into a fixture of your home. Mounting a gun safe provides protection from theft of your safe. Burglars see safes as treasure chest, they will try to steal them to open it on their own time. To make it difficult for your gun safe to be stolen, it should be properly mounted to the floor or wall of your home.

There are many different factors you should consider when choosing where to mount your gun safe. These include what room you should keep your safe to what kind of material you should mount your gun safe to. We will cover it all in this guide.

Keep your safe hidden.

Only you and those you trust should know about the location of your gun safe. When choosing where to store your weapon, you should find a location that can conceal your weapon from direct site. This means keeping it away from any windows that may give plain view to the safe.

If you have children in the house, a good rule of thumb is to keep dangerous household items 5 ft. or higher. This same goes for gun safes. If you children in the house, you should keep your gun safe high and hidden.

Keep it away from kitchens and fireplaces.

Most gun safes on the market will not protect your gun from a fire. Even the best gun safes which do provide fire protection will only protect your weapon to a certain temperature and for a limited amount of time. To reduce the risk of fire damage to your gun and safe, you should keep it out of the kitchen, any room with a fireplace or other fire hazards. Most house fires start from one of these rooms.

Keep away from humidity

Moisture is the main reason for rust on metals. Rust on your gun can cause it to stop functioning. To protect your gun from rusting inside the gun safe, make sure it’s placed somewhere with proper climate control. You can also consider buying a gun safe dehumidifier to absorb excess moisture in the gun safe.

Quick and easy access to the safe

When looking for a good place to hide your gun safe, you should consider someplace that you will have quick and easy access to. In case of any emergency, every second to get to your weapon will matter. It’s recommending to keep your weapon in the room you spend the most time. Most people will choose to mount their gun safe in their bedroom to keep their weapons close by at night.

Make sure the safe door can easily be opened without any obstacles blocking it. If you are tight with space, avoid cramming your gun safe in a hard to reach location.

Mounting your gun safe to a concrete slab

Mounting your gun safe to a concrete slab will be most effective. Some homes have concrete slab walls or floors. Basements and garages often have concreted slab floors as well. Once your gun safe is mounting to a concrete slab foundation, it’s very difficult to rip of.

When mounting your safe to a concrete slab, you should use a hammer drill. This will save you a lot of time and energy and provide secure mounting of the concrete anchors. If you don’t have one, ask a neighbor or rent one from your local hardware store.

Mounting your gun safe to a wood floor/wall

When mounting your gun safe to wooden floors, it’s important to drill into the actually floor joint and not just the plywood. Floors joists are the beams the run across the floor of your home. Plywood is attached to these beams to support the floor. A gun safe mounted to just the plywood can be easily pried off.

It’s important to make sure you do not have a gap between the floor/wall and the steel of the safe. Any gap between the gun safe and the wall/floor will allow space for a pry tool to detach the safe.

Best places in your home to hide your gun safe.


A lot of people choose to keep their gun safe under their bed or inside the bedroom closet. These are both great places if you will not block the entrance to the safe. If you keep your safe in your closet, it’s important to keep your closet clutter free for easy access to the safe.

Living room

Keeping your gun safe in the living room is not a bad idea if it’s hidden well. The living room is centrally located which makes it a central location for your weapon in case of an emergency.


Basements and garages with climate control are great places to hide your gun safe since they usually have concrete slab floors. You should avoid keeping your gun in the garage or basement if it does not have climate control, it’s likely an area with high humidity.

This article was written by Nate Perkins. He is a gun enthusiast and has a history in law enforcement. In his line of work, he has noticed the lack of attention to gun safety in homes. provides you everything you need to know about safely storing your firearms, and reviews/comparisons of the best gun safes.

The Seven Essential Mistakes to Avoid During Bowhunting

As sportsmen and hunters, it is absolutely necessary to learn from every mistake we make. If not, the next outing can be just as frustrating as the last. The following 7 mistakes are the seven most commonly made in the sport of bow hunting or archery and should be recognized and overcome as early as possible.

Misjudging Distance
The number one reason a bow hunter misjudges their mark is because they misjudge distance. Precision and estimation are highly important, vital aspects of the sport and without them, it is impossible to be successful.

Fortunately, all it takes are some practice and experience to be somewhat accurate at estimating the shooting distance. As your draw strength improves over time, make sure to take that into account as it will affect your optimum shooting distance. Mark your yardage whenever possible and practice often at home or at a range to get a better idea of how far you are standing from any given target.
If you are serious about bow hunting or archery, then you might want to get a good rangefinder. With advance technology these days, most rangefinders are accurate to a +/- 5 meters. It’s not a necessity, but definitely a handy gear to have.

Mishandled Equipment
If your equipment is not well maintained, it will not serve you well in the field. Your shots will be less accurate, your distance will suffer, and you will have less of a good time while shooting. This means you should inspect your equipment as often as possible and perform routine maintenance.
Tuning should be done before you go out every time, checking to ensure the center is trued, the screws and limb bolts are all in good position and that your sight pins are checked.

Too Much Weight
Speed is not the end all of bow hunting. In fact, too many hunters place a premium of being able to get high speed into their shots rather than any number of other possibilities. Accuracy is much more important and for that reason, your draw weight should be set well within your comfort level.
The extra FPS you gain is not worth the loss of accuracy and comfort in your shots. Also, remember that conditions in the field can greatly diminish the effectiveness of a weight you have tested beforehand.

Poorly Placed Shots
If you miss the right position on the animal, your hunt can become a horrible situation. A wounded, lost animal can haunt a hunter for the rest of the trip and ruin a perfectly good outing. It is necessary, both technically and ethically, to be able to hit the kill zone on an animal when bow hunting.
This means, you should be able to recognize where the kill zone is as well as have the right degree of accuracy in your shots to hit that position. If you do not feel you can do this, you should reconsider hunting with a bow until you have enough practice under your belt to do so.
To be more accurate though, you could use a bow stabilizer which absorbs vibrations in the bow at the shot. The added weight using the stabilizer will also keep the bow upright which will really improve accuracy.

Shooting Too Fast
If you grow too confident in your ability to shoot and release quickly on the run, you will probably have limited success. As a bow hunter, or any hunter for that matter, patience is absolutely vital. You want to get into and out of a stand as quickly as possible with minimal impact. If you can calmly and quietly handle your ground each time out, you will be much more effective than if you bolt in and try to overwhelm your game each time you go out.

Stand Placement
When you place your stand, a lot of importance is placed in the location, height, and time of its placement. If you are too low, too early, or in the wrong place, you will only spook your game and ruin a good position. Your placement will depend partly on your personal preference, but remember to make the right adjustments for your surroundings and the effect they will have on your game. Anywhere between 14 and 18 feet is ideal, providing enough range to keep from spooking your next quarry and with enough freedom to move if necessary.

Moving Too Much
If you move too much in your stand, you will not be successful. You must be willing to stand quietly, patiently, and as still as possible while waiting. Deer are incredibly adept at picking up movement – it is a survival instinct. If you set off those senses, they will bolt. Always keep an arrow knocked when on a stand so that you can minimize movement before a shot.

The right balance of common sense and preparation can result in the perfect hunting trips and the right shots almost every time for you. Be aware of what is happening around you, do not over adjust, move, or grow impatient, and you can avoid many of the most common mistakes made by bow hunters.

These are some of the common problems faced by most bow hunters at some point of the time. Have I missed out any of them? Feel free to share your opinion below.

Author Bio: John Lewis, a blogger over at, survivalist and outdoor enthusiast. While he believes that everyone should enjoy their lives doing things they love, being financially, mentally and physically prepared to face challenges that may arise is inevitably important.

Rundown Of The Best Cartridges For Hunting Deer

Rundown Of The Best Cartridges For Hunting Deer

When it comes to choosing the best cartridge for deer hunting, there seems to be quite a lot of debate.

I think the main problem is using the word best, when in reality many cartridges will take down a deer. However, there are many different variables at play, and people will always have their preferences.

In this article, I ran down some of the most popular choices out there and put a little data into the comparison.

While there are some folks out there that deer hunt with pistols or shotgun slugs, I’m constraining this analysis to rifles.

Different Factors

I first want to go over some of the main factors that go into choosing a deer hunting cartridge. People can always think of more, but this list covers the ones that effect most people. Your cartridge is a major choice before you go out to hunt.

Shot Range

If you ask around, most hunters would agree that the majority of deer are shot within 150 yards or less.

There are a variety of reasons on why this is the case. Usually, the average shooter is pretty proficient with their weapon at 100 yards, and many at 200 yards. As you get farther out, a shooter’s accuracy starts to drop off.

Accuracy And Shot Placement

Let’s face it. Shooter accuracy and where they can place a bullet is a huge factor. That is why we always here about people using smaller calibers and taking down deer easily, while others may end up losing their deer.

The advantage of bigger calibers is simply that it allows a little bit more shooter slop, assuming that the bullet is placed within reason.

While the cartridge plays a small role in accuracy, the rifle chosen is a bigger player. With modern rifles, this isn’t near as much of a problem given the size of a deer within 150 yards. Scope setup is also important.


As far as bullet trajectory, it is preferable to have a flatter trajectory over a 150 yard range. Naturally, a hunter will sight in their rifle for their preferred ideal distance, which is usually 100 yards for the average hunter.

Assuming they know how to use their scope properly, and are familiar with their rifle, most trajectory issues shouldn’t be a problem in this range. However, for longer range shots, trajectory will start playing a much bigger factor. Different reticles come in handy here.

Velocity and Energy

A big factor is the velocity of the bullet and the energy that it has when striking the target. The bullet will exit the muzzle at a certain speed, and then due to aerodynamics, will lose speed over range. We usually talk about bullet speed in units of feet per second (fps).

The energy of the bullet is simply related to the mass and velocity of the bullet when it hits the target. The units of measurement here are typically foot pounds (ft-lbs). Obviously, if you increase the mass and/or the velocity, you increase the energy.

A good rule of thumb is that you want around 1,000 foot pounds of energy to cleanly kill a deer. The rule is not perfect, but works well on average. Bullet placement is important here.


Recoil can play a role. For new or smaller frame shooters, taking a shoulder beating can be a problem. Most people can man up enough to take that single shot on a deer, but what about practicing a lot at the range to get proficient at their rifle?

If enough practice isn’t put in, with a knowledge of a lot of kick, flinching usually develops as a side effect. This will effect shooter accuracy.

The average size adult male shouldn’t have too many issues here, unless you have a sensitive shoulder or a prior injury. It’s a matter of personal preference. There are great recoil pad products out there too to help alleviate problems here.

Ammo Price And Availability

Depending on how often you practice shooting and hunt, the price of ammo can really add up here. What many people will do is get into reloading to help reduce the costs.

Availability can be an issue depending on where you live, or if you are on a hunting trip and can’t find more ammo in the cases that you might need it. Another concern is long term hunting during ammo shortages, or if civilization happens to ever end.

Rifle Size

The size of your rifle does play a role. It all depends on your hunting grounds and setup. Some people might like getting way out in the woods, which means a nice hike to and from the deer stand.

A couple of pounds difference in your rifle starts adding up. Not to mention that longer rifles are much more unwieldy when navigating through thick woods, over fences, and through creeks.

The size will affect younger and older hunters sooner than a hunter in their prime.

Most Popular Cartridges Used

Here’s what I did. I went out and asked a lot of people what cartridge they used for hunting deer. I also did a lot of research to see what the most popular options are. I wanted to bridge the gap to data, so I found out what the top selling rifle cartridges were in the USA.

The goal here is to try to compare what most people are buying and using, and see how the different factors line up among these choices. I came up with the 7 most popular options.

If your favorite isn’t here, it doesn’t mean it’s not a great choice. I just couldn’t cover everything in a decent sized article. The goal is to cover the biggest swath of hunters out there.

.308 Winchester

The .308 is the commercial cartridge version of the 7.62×51mm. Naturally, shooters in the USA often quickly adopt military based rounds.

The military has taken the time to really balance out these rounds, plus the ammo industry does a better job of mass producing them, which helps get the cost down.

The .308 is a popular choice because of the AR-10, as well as some very popular rifles like the Remington 700. It usually comes with good accuracy and long barrel life. The cartridge is one of the best all around options and is reloader friendly.

 .30-06 Springfield

The .30-06 has been around for quite a long time. It has been used in well known weapons, and has been a go to cartridge for many hunters. If you are looking for a more thorough rundown, there is a great comparison of the .308 versus the .30-06.

The .30-06 is going to be very similar to the .308, but has a little more recoil. It is also extremely reloader friendly, and offers a bigger array of bullet sizes over the .308.

 .30-30 Winchester

The .30-30 is a classic, and has its origins back to 1895 for the Winchester Model 1894. Because of this, it is often associated with lever action rifles. However, it’s not exclusive to them.

 .270 Winchester

The .270 is a necked down .30-03, which is the same parent case as the .30-06. There is another detailed comparison between the .270 versus .308 if you are interested in more info.

 .243 Winchester

While the .243 is more popular as a varmint round, it is also found in some deer hunter’s arsenals. The .243 is based on a necked down .308 case. It’s a popular target round for its accuracy and lower recoil.

 7mm-08 Remington

Given the ballistics, the 7mm-08 Rem has been gaining in popularity for deer hunting. It is a .308 Win case necked down to accept a 7mm bullet. A 7mm bullet is equivalent to .284 for reference.

.223 Remington

Actually, the .223 is the top seller in the USA since people are buying it for their AR-15s.

While the .223 is not the first choice for deer hunting, people have successfully used it to kill a deer. Given the popularity of the AR-15, I thought it was useful to include it on the list for comparison.

Because of the ballistics, the shooter needs to be pretty good with their shots. Otherwise they end up just wounding a deer.

The AR-15 is a popular platform, and for the really good shooters out there, might be a viable option. It’s not the best choice for the average shooter. The AR-10 is also popular, and with the .308 cartridge, is a much better choice for deer. If you want a comparison between .223 and .308, there is a nice delta here.

Ballistics Comparison

In order to get a valid ballistics number comparison, I chose the Federal premium ammo ballistics calculator.

I also chose to go with the Fusion ammo line since it’s available in all of the cartridges in this study for consistency. It’s a product that has been around since around 2005 and is designed specifically for deer hunting. The Fusion ammo gets some great reviews from hunters.

Some other assumptions for the calculator include: factory loads, sight height of 1.5 inches, zero range of 100 yards, temperature of 59 degrees Fahrenheit, wind speed of 10 mph, and altitude of 0 feet. These are the calculator defaults.

I also chose to focus on three ranges of 50, 150, and 300 yards to give a nice comparison of different shot distances.

Remember that we are assuming that most deer are shot under 150 yards and that our rule of thumb of 1,000 foot pounds (ft-lb) is the ideal energy to cleanly kill a deer. I colored the energy numbers in red that fall below this goal.

50 Yards

Here we can see that all of the cartridges perform well as expected. The only thing to point out is that the .223 is barely under the 1,000 ft-lb mark at 934 ft-lbs. This would indicate that using the Fusion ammo at 62 gr for shots under 50 yards should do just fine.

 150 Yards

At 150 yards, we see that all of the cartridges are still doing fine, except the .223 has fallen quite a bit below our desired energy, with 745 foot pounds delivered on target. The .30-30 has a bigger drop and wind drift here than the rest.

 300 Yards

For 300 yards, if folks want to take those longer and riskier shots, we see that now the .30-30 and .223 are below our desired energy goal. Also, the drop and wind drift for the .30-30 is substantially greater.


To wrap up our analysis, we covered many factors that you want to consider in choosing a cartridge for deer hunting. For example, rifle size, recoil, accuracy, price, availability, and many more play a role in each hunter’s decision.

It’s hard to quantify all of these factors because usually they can be very subjective from person to person. If recoil is a major factor, look into getting something like a LimbSaver recoil pad.

One objective factor that we can compare realistically is ballistics. We looked at the paper numbers by comparing the same manufacturer Federal, and the same product line Fusion of ammo across the cartridges.

What we found here is that only the .223 starts to fall behind up to 150 yards. The others perform very well. The .30-30 shows double the drop and wind drift though, which can be critical. At 300 yards, the .223 and .30-30 start dipping below our desired energy for a clean deer kill.

The final verdict is that depending on your preferences, all of these cartridges perform well for hunting deer under 150 yards. If you do insist on using a .223, you will need to make sure that you have great accuracy on bullet placement.

If you plan on hunting beyond 150 yards, you will need to be more selective on your cartridge choice.

Also, remember that we chose the Fusion ammo line from Federal, which is designed for deer hunting. If you go for more generic ammo, make sure and check the ballistics to ensure that it’s a great choice for deer.

Update Note (May 15, 2017): The original charts had the .270 145 grain from the Federal ballistics calculator which gives wrong data. Mark updated the charts for the .270 150 grain data, which is correct.

About the Author

Mark Wright is a longtime hunter and shooting enthusiast. He spends a lot of time at the range. Between hunting and shooting, he often shares his expertise over at Trek Warrior.

The Dangerous Thrills of Tannerite Target Shooting

Target shooting and shooting ranges are statistically increasingly popular hobbies, and it is common for gun ranges to offer customers extra programs like Tannerite shooting or ladies’ nights with incentivized prices and deals. Tannerite can take target practice to a new level. Its explosive impact appeals to many shooters, but the material can (unsurprisingly) be very dangerous as well. It is very powerful, and misuse could lead to a host of problems for shooters. Tannerite can cause injury, fires, death, and lead to arrest. It can even be a tool in terrorist attacks. In fact, the New York City bombing that took place last fall was caused by a binary explosive. Although the material doesn’t go off without a shot, investigators found Tannerite residue on the bomb.

What is Tannerite?

Tannerite is a binary explosive that is sometimes used in long range shooting. Tannerite is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and aluminum powder, both ingredients you can buy legally. Some people even make their own “tannerite”, mixing the compounds on their own. It creates a loud “boom!” noise after being hit. The material was patented and invented by Daniel J. Tanner.

How Do Shooters Use Tannerite?

Shooters usually fire at least 100 yards away from Tannerite, since it is designed for long range shooting. To make sure the Tannerite releases the desired effect, you must use high-velocity bullets. The Tannerite site has a list of bullets you can use for targets.

The Appeal of Tannerite Shooting

For thrill seekers looking for new exciting things to do, Tannerite holds a significant appeal. According to a study done by Dr. Zald of Vanderbilt, dopamine is responsible for risky behaviors. People with fewer dopamine inhibitors are more likely to take risks, which helps explain the rush people feel when they bungee jump, skydive, or blow things up. Tannerite shooting is nothing short of exciting; blowing up a target will definitely give someone that dose of dopamine.

Laws Regarding Tannerite Shooting

While Tannerite is legal to make and buy, it is an explosive. In fact, there have been attempts to either ban or regulate its use federally and in different states.

Accidents Involving Tannerite

A man recently lost his leg while shooting a Tannerite target. David Pressley shot a semiautomatic rifle at a lawn mower full of the explosive in March 2016. He moved closer to the target to shoot it, since the first few shots didn’t detonate the Tannerite. After the explosion, pieces of the bomb and metal ricocheted from the lawn mower. One of the shards cut off Pressley’s leg. In this case, he used more than the recommended amount of tannerite.

Another man in Oklahoma killed his 8-year-old cousin after a Tannerite explosion. On February 8th 2015, 22-year-old Brandon Martin shot at a stove full of the mixture. Fragments hit Jonathan Pelan after the explosion, and he died later from his injuries. Martin’s arrest was initially processed on a manslaughter charge, but instead, he received a second-degree murder charge.

In 2014, a Montana wildfire started after a Tannerite explosion. Witnesses said they heard a loud boom before seeing the flames. The incident displaced two mountain lion cubs and burned 50 acres of land, costing $94,000 to suppress.

Proper Ways to Shoot Tannerite

Those who still wish to shoot Tannerite must be aware of the risks and how to shoot safely with the material. Misuse of Tannerite could lead to death, so treat it like the dangerous substance it is.

  • Don’t use more than the recommended amounts
  • Keep children away from shooting areas
  • Only use Tannerite outside or at ranges that offer this option
  • Don’t use Tannerite near neighbors
  • Shoot at least 100 yards away from a target with Tannerite
  • Don’t put Tannerite targets on metal objects

For more information on how to safely use Tannerite, check out the safety information on the Tannerite website.

Rory Bagley is an avid hunter and shooter, and an expert archer. He enjoys researching and writing about practices that better the sport of hunting in safe, responsible, and conservational manners.

Two-Stage Triggers: A Better Choice for All-Around Use

During my shooting career, I’ve used both single-stage and two-stage triggers. I’ve used some of the best of each, and some that weren’t very good. After years of shooting, I determined that my favorite trigger is the Anschutz two-stage. Accordingly, I installed this model on both the Winchester Model 70 and Remington 700—the two I actions I use in competition. In fact, I designed the TUBB 2000 rifle specifically to accommodate the Anschutz two-stage.

Since settling on the Anschutz two-stage, most of my shooting has been with two-stage triggers. For that all-important, once-in-a-lifetime shot, I’ll take a well-adjusted two-stage trigger every time. You have choices, however—there are actually four main types of triggers:


Release triggers are usually only used in competition shotguns. This type of trigger fires the shot when the trigger is released, rather than when it’s pulled. This type of trigger is helpful for a shooter who has developed a flinch, but it is dangerous in any setting, other than a controlled competition environment.


Designed for shooters who prefer a very light break weight and minimal sear engagement, the set trigger requires a trigger mechanism to be set first to prepare the trigger for the final pull. Of course this increases the firearm’s lock time, and many shooters find the operation clumsy.


This is the most common trigger type found in modern rifles. When you close the bolt, the trigger sears are at a minimum engagement tolerance so that when you pull the trigger, the minimum trigger movement is required for the rifle to fire. Most properly adjusted, single-stage triggers are not safe at less than two-pounds of trigger-pull weight. A lightweight, single-stage trigger is an unsafe liability in hunting/field situations because of the high probability of unintentional discharge.


This design has a tensioned first-stage movement, or take-up, prior to engaging the sear lever, which is then also the start of the second-stage break. The take up of the first stage reduces the amount of sear engagement. When the second stage bump occurs, which stops the rearward trigger motion, the movement of the sears associated with the two-stage trigger are now at the minimum engagement tolerance. Depending on how the trigger has been adjusted, it may only take a few ounces more of rearward trigger pressure to cleanly break the second-stage weight and fire the shot. The fact that the sears are not minimized until the first stage is taken up makes a two-stage the safest trigger.

The Trouble with Single-Stage Triggers

If we look at a two-pound break weight trigger in single-stage configuration, a trigger scale will measure two-pounds total weight pressure before the trigger moves and the rifle fires. Less than two pounds of break weight in a single-stage trigger is simply not safe for the average field shooter. For safety, factory single-stage triggers are normally four-pounds or more in pull weight. Another disadvantage of the lightweight single-stage trigger is that it does not allow you to hold and handle the rifle with same gripping tension and authority of the rifle as a two-stage trigger. The probability of the rifle unintentionally firing is greatly increased. Sympathetic trigger finger movement from increased gripping tension, reduced feeling in the trigger finger due to cold weather, brushing an exposed branch, or catching the trigger itself on one’s gear are all possible causes of accidental discharge. The two-stage is simply an easier trigger to control. That little bump stop, the ending of the first-stage take-up and the beginning of the second-stage remaining resistance, is a huge asset to making a centered shot.

The Benefits of Two-Stage Triggers

The two-stage trigger can be tuned much more accurately than the single-stage trigger. The user is able to set up the trigger to have a specific total weight, a specific amount of first-stage movement (rearward travel distance), and a precise amount of weight for the first-stage trigger pull. Once you have taken up a majority of the total trigger weight (the first stage) it now becomes a much easier task to break a clean shot with an increase of just a few ounces more against the remaining second-stage weight. The user is also able to tune the second stage to break within their comfort range (usually from three to eight ounces of second-stage weight). This means that the two-stage trigger weight is two pounds in total or overall weight (start to finish) but breaks after the first-stage take-up with an additional pull of only three to eight-ounces. This makes the two-stage a better platform for breaking an accurate shot. It is much easier for the shooter to pull the remaining few ounces (the second stage) than it is to overcome the two-pounds total pull weight for the single-stage trigger.

Control of the rifle is also a major factor here. A two-stage trigger lets the user grip or hold the rifle with authority, if needed, to make a precision shot or move to a better shooting position. When shooting offhand in the wind, for instance, the first-stage take-up can be relaxed and then re-engaged if needed, while the shooter waits for the best opportunity for a centered shot break. The lightweight single-stage creates a more timid shooting strategy, in one way of looking at it, because there is less connection and control over the trigger-pulling process than with the two-stage trigger.

Where Can I Find a Two-Stage Trigger?

There are plenty of two-stage triggers to choose from. The Mauser 98, 30/40 Krag, 1903 03A3 Springfield, M1 Garand, and the M14 are all good examples. The fact that these rifles all have two-stage triggers shouldn’t be too surprising—they were all military issue at one time and needed the safest firing mechanism. The two-stage trigger fits the bill perfectly, because it will take a lot of abuse before a shot is unintentionally fired.

Virtually every position target rifle shooter in the world uses a two-stage trigger. Its many advantages include giving users the ability to exactly tune the trigger pull, inherent safety design, and superior performance in terms of accuracy.

Matt at Gunwerks
Matt is an avid outdoors enthusiast and part of the team. When he’s not camping, you will find Matt writing about cutting edge process for long range civilian marksmen. | | | @gunwerks